Home Home improvement The Installation of a bathtub in your shower

The Installation of a bathtub in your shower

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This article will take you through a basic installation procedure, starting with what is typically the most challenging part – the old bathroom and shower out. Then we’ll teach you how to install the new shower and recharge it. Finally, we will show you a way of tiling that makes the finishing job more manageable and makes the complete installation seem excellent in when you are doing a bathroom remodel in Vancouver.

For a beginner, this project is a bit complex. It would help if you had experience with plumbing (P-traps and faucets) and essential equipment for woodworking.

An Insight into the installation

Begin by measuring your existing bathroom’s estimated length and width. Allow an additional 3/4 in. for each wall, and your measurement should be around one of the conventional tub sizes. The majority are five ft. in length and 30 in width and designed to fit the wall bars Then shop for tubes and sleeping areas at house centers or specialist kitchens and bathrooms. Order your tub, then. Acrylic replacement tubing is sufficiently light to hoist one person, even in small areas. But take care of one piece of the shower and one-piece bath/shower stalls. Usually, they’re too bulky to enter an existing bathroom. Clear silicon kitchen/bath caulk and other supplies are depicted in the images. Take also a new drain and overflow assembly. It’s also the best moment to replace the old valve, sprocket, and shower arm.

Remove the bath and showerhead

Remove the roofing faucet, spout tub and head of the shower Pry off the plastic from the tap and remove the screws holding the handle and plate. Discharge the spout of the bath and overflow cover of the tub.

Spread a large canvas across the floor of the bathroom and adjoining fittings before starting. Select the shutdowns for the bath — generally in an adjacent room behind an access panel — and turn off the water. Most ropes are fastened with screws. Look for a screw from Allen in a nook under the bathroom. If it doesn’t have one, then it’s probably a spout with a pipe wrench you unscrew (counterclockwise). Wrap a towel around your jaws if you plan to save or reuse the tap. Remove the shower arm with the twist of the pipe too.

Remove the existing bath surrounding.

Cut the drywall off the original surround somewhat. Use a sharp blade tool knife and mark multiple times until the blade is cut.

Check the new surrounding bath (including the flanges) before cutting off the old surrounding or tile wall to reduce problems later. Then make your cuts approximately one in. more significant than the new rough-in-around bath (Photo 2). Cut the drywall around the bathroom and down to the base trim. Cover or disconnect the drain to prevent the waste line from being filled with waste. The scoring system we describe takes strength but eliminates the problem of isolation and hidden wires and pipes. If you are using a drywall or keyhole screw, gently cut and keep the cut shallow.

Many of the older bath surroundings are, like ours, attached to drywall. If this is the case, take the old wall out and surround it with a hammer, a pry bar, and your hands (Photos 3a, b, c, and d). This also works for a tile on drywall or backer. Wear a dust mask when the drywall is moldy, or the ancient plaster is being destroyed. If the old surround was torn in place, just put the screws out.

Open the access panel in the neighboring room and release the slide nuts that link the old overflow to the trap. If necessary, use slip-joint pliers.

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