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When the Basement Wall is not Completely Dense

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In older basements from before 1950, the walls are rarely 100 percent dense. The problem is often aggravated by the fact that no drains have been laid around the house. In older houses, there may also be cracks and crevices at bases and basement walls. Basement walls of this type can become quite moist, and in the worst case, the moisture can be sucked through the basement walls up into the wooden beams in the floor separation between the basement and the ground floor, where it can cause problems with advice and sponge in the construction. This guide is from KapitalBasements.co.uk.

Several factors influence how high the moisture is absorbed in the walls:

How much groundwater and rainwater come in from outside

The materials and quality of the basement walls

The suction capacity of the surrounding soil

If the basement wall is enclosed behind interior wall coverings and diffusion-tight paints, so that the moisture is pushed upwards.

The simple and relatively inexpensive solution if your basement walls are not dense

Remove all dense coatings as well as basements from basement walls and floors to allow the structures to air. It is important that the moisture should not be closed during clothing, dense paint, glass tissue and the like.

Good natural ventilation must be established by means of ventilation grilles in basement walls or via dampers in windows.

In the beginning, when it comes to getting accumulated moisture away as soon as possible, you can possibly. Supplement the natural ventilation with an electric dehumidifier or a moisture-controlled fan. This type of drying is expensive in operation, so it is not suitable as a permanent solution. You should contact a company specializing in dehumidification if the moisture problem is so large that it requires dehumidification.

Mount a moisture bag that easily and cheaply collects moisture from the ambient air.

If you want to treat walls and floors in the basement, it is important that you use diffusion-open (non-dense) materials, such as silicate paint, lime or the like.

Put heat on the basement. There does not need to be the same temperature as in the house, but make sure that the temperature in the basement is between 15-18 degrees. Accept that regular repairs of plaster or paint on the basement wall walls must be carried out on a regular basis, as a little moisture penetrates.

The more expensive and more comprehensive solution

If the moisture problems are greater, or if the above measures do not help the problem, a more extensive renovation is required.

The best solution is to seal the basement wall outside and lay a bulk drain. It is an expensive and somewhat cumbersome solution, because it has to be excavated along the entire facade of the house, right down to the underside of the foundation or basement wall, but never further down, as you then risk sentence damage and in the worst case collapse of the building construction.

Therefore, you need to carefully consider whether the cost is consistent with what you can get out of the basement. Alternatively, you can choose the cheaper solution and accept that there are limits to what you can use your cellar for.

If you want a more comprehensive moisture refurbishment of your basement, we recommend that you seek advice from one or more professional advisors and professionals.

An advisor can assess the real extent and cause of the moisture problems and describe the exact precise constructional solution in your individual case (it can be a building designer, engineer, architect or expert in advice and fungi).

An engineer should also examine your basement wall and ensure that it can withstand being dug free temporarily without cracking. A cellar wall that is dug free may in some cases run out or get serious sentence damage.

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